Recently I’ve noticed a trend among dog trainers which involves using props and techniques to prevent a dog from doing x, y or z while training for a specific dog sport. I suppose it’s not a new thing really. I mean we’ve all used treats to prevent a dog from getting distracted in classes, and while waiting our turn to perform in competition, but this seems different to me. It’s more like trying to keep a lid on a pot that’s about to boil over, in the name of a flashy, living-on-the-edge performance that may or may not end well.

The common player is an overly aroused dog who hasn’t learned the important skill of self control. The props and techniques used simply manage the dog’s arousal, or the damage he might do, but do nothing to actually teach the dog how to shift into the Think & Learn Zone on his own so that he can eventually achieve that dream performance without the aids that manage him.

So what’s the difference between management and training? Suzanne Clothier offers an informative webinar on this very topic. The bottom line is that management prevents the dog from practicing unwanted behaviors. The goal of training, on the other hand, is to teach the dog skills he can apply to new situations. Management is used when the dog’s arousal shifts out of balance and he is unable to make good choices. Good training happens when the dog can think and learn.

What about self-control? What is that, exactly? I like this definition from Oxford Languages: “the ability to control oneself, in particular one's emotions and desires or the expression of them in one's behavior, especially in difficult situations.” I welcome you to an internet search to discover other definitions. What you’ll find is that they all have a common theme, that control comes from self, not from some outside force. The ability for the dog to control himself must come from within, and in order to teach it we must carefully select opportunities for him to practice it.

And that’s where we sometimes lose sight of what we’re actually attempting to develop. We think we’re developing self control when we’re really just teaching another cued behavior. A good clue is that if you’re reliant on a technique or prop to practice self control during training, you’re managing. That means the dog isn’t learning how to shift his arousal on his own.

You’ve probably seen countless photos of dogs seeming to practice self control while lying down behind their name, which has been carefully spelled out using treats. Which do you think was laid down first, the treats? Or the dog? If the dog was laid down and put into a stay first, the action of laying the treats and getting the camera to take the photo is simply a proofing exercise for the stay. If the treats were laid down first and then the dog was brought into lay down for the shoot without going for the treats, THAT’S unprompted self-control. You’ll find plenty of real self control being practiced on the Connection, Cooperation & Control YouTube Channel each and every time the dog passes a food puzzle which is being used as a reward.

Food scattering is a technique in which the handler tosses food onto the ground and tells the dog to find the treats. Some trainers use it to distract the dog from something else that is occurring in the environment, like a dog passing by, or a squirrel scurrying up a tree. It’s a great strategy to keep the dog from getting into trouble. Others use food scatters to shift the dog’s arousal into a more productive state, as seeking requires a great deal of concentration. Both are solid ideas, but what are they actually teaching the dog about how to shift his arousal and make good choices for himself, when he’s not in training land, and when it’s not on cue?

Some trainers use props as stations to help control the dog, like teaching the dog to lay on a mat, or sending him to a platform to contain him. Both serve as visual cues so the dog knows where to go, and where to stay. There’s that word “stay” again: a trained behavior rather than a volitional choice to practice impulse control. Do many dogs dash to their mat or perch on their own, without being cued? Of course they do. They’ve been rewarded in that coveted spot over and over again! While these props certainly serve their purpose, and the dog may eventually relax when he gets there, what happens in the real world when there is no mat or platform for the dog to cue on? How to they find self control on their own, without those props?

In nose work, one of the skills taught is how to find a target odor in a closed container among many others. A common problem among highly aroused dogs is the tendency to crush boxes, especially the odor box, in their quest to locate source. The problem is, destruction of items in the search area is faulted in competition, so handlers are constantly looking for ways to stop the crush. There are lots of ideas circulating about how to fix this problem in training, like using cinderblocks as containers so that destroying the container isn’t enjoyable for the dog, or putting the boxes under chairs or behind gates so the dog can’t access the box to crush it. But what happens in the heat of competition, when none of those aids are available? And what has the dog learned about how to actually control himself while searching?

If you’re having to manage the dog in the middle of a training session, it’s likely that something is out of whack. There’s a really good chance that you’re running the dog beyond his functional mental capacity.

Instead of interrupting training with management, it seems more fair to the dog to orchestrate separate training sessions where you can help him develop the self control that he’s lacking, to teach him skills he can use to adjust his own arousal without the need for special props and techniques.

Take a look at your current training environment. Now strip it down of all the props and distractions, and you’ll have the perfect space to begin working on self control. (If you can’t do that it’s a good indication that it may not best place for you to be training your dog.) Bonus: you’ll also have a great space to continue practice those performance specific skills SEPARATELY.

Now make a list of all the distractions you eliminated so that you can add them back in later, one-by-one, when the dog tells you he’s ready for each of them.

Create a detailed plan on how you will re-introduce each one in a controlled manner, so you can set him up for success. Instead of using real and very unpredictable squirrels, for example, tie some fishing line to a furry toy and have a helper tug on the line, when and how you tell her to, depending on what the dog needs. You’ll know you’ve got it right and are ready for the next step when it doesn’t look like training at all! Watch for smooth and swift responses rather than jerky movements from your dog as an indication that he’s practicing functional, productive arousal. He’ll tell you when he’s ready for the next step.

Teach your dog to offer unprompted eye contact to promote thoughtful connection. Remember, if it’s cued it won’t do anything to teach the dog how to control himself from within. Wait patiently for the dog to choose it, and pay handsomely when he does. Once he’s got that down, begin reintroducing those distractions, one by one, and in the controlled manner using the plan you laid out.
Practice your own breathing exercises to be sure you’re modeling balanced arousal for him
If you want to play a food scatter game, hunt for the treats with him to promote partnership.
Consider enrolling in the Connection Cooperation & Control program near you or online.
Nose work peeps: set up simple searches without containers and practice your leash handling skills so that you can prevent your dog from charging into a search area. Here’s a free how to called Leash Brakes. Ask him for some behaviors to measure how smooth and swift his responses are before releasing him to search. Remember, smooth and swift = functional arousal. Once you’ve got your leash brakes in order, you might also be interested in this free lesson called Box Crushing 101.

Setting your dog up to successfully practice volitional self control every step of the way will improve your performance immeasurably, and develop a partnership that’ll take you wherever you want to go.

Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and into your dog’s instead. It’ll likely cure what ails you.

Cindy's Blog

Self Control: When an Ounce of Prevention Isn't Worth a Pound of Cure